Santiago to Muxía 95km over 3 days

We were well rested after our short stay in Santiago, so we donned our packs again to set off for Muxía, on the Costa del Morte. My pack was lighter this time – actually lighter rather than metaphorically, because I left 3/4 of it behind in Santiago! Yes, folks I realised that I had shit I didn’t need 😉.

We took our morning photo in front of the cathedral. Look at our refreshed and smiling faces! We were on our way, with about 95km ahead of us to reach our destination. Initially we planned to take 4 days, but some insanity took over and we ended up doing it in 3. But I digress…more on that stupid decision later.

It was a steady climb out of Santiago, because it wouldn’t be a morning without a climb now would it…

To be honest I didn’t really carefully check the elevation map, but the next 3 days seemed to be one steady climb after another! There weren’t many towns, but the walk between them was pretty. we walked through forests and over rivers, and saw endless fields of corn.

The decision to do the first 30+km day came about because we got to Negreira, 22km from Santiago, had a pilgrim lunch and a refreshing cerveza, and decided we had more in us that day. Hmmm. We didn’t realise that there would be another hill to climb until it was too late!

That night we stopped in A Peña and had a great communal meal at the albergue. We met Jose from Madrid and a couple of Irishmen. The night was filled with great conversations. It struck me that those who have walked for a time are quite reflective and conversation goes deep.

Well after you’ve done one 30km day, you can do the next one right? The day dawned bright and beautiful. I had about 2 hours sleep because of snoring (not me). We decided to leave before dawn…

We walked as the sun rose, it was spectacular, and I was reminded how lucky I am to be a part of this.

Funny thing happened actually this morning. I logged onto abc Melbourne because I love listening at home. It was 3pm in Melbourne so Jacinta Parsons was on and the theme was ‘global wind day’. I happened to, at that moment, be walking through a wind farm so I texted in and shared where I was. Well my text was read on radio and I was so chuffed that this little pilgrim managed to get a mention on radio back home!

Our walk was once again climbing steadily and then we saw this – an almost vertical ascent. I almost cried.

We stopped for lunch at Olveiroa. We limped into the bar and as usual took off our shoes and socks at the table. This may sound a little odd, but it is actually quite normal practice here amongst pilgrims. Our waiter was Bruno and he was great!

That night we stopped in a hamlet called Logoso another 30+ km day. We reconnected with Jose from Madrid who has promised to be our guide the next time we’re there. The people you meet…

Our last day before Muxía and we were once again up at dawn. Smiling at this point because we had no idea what was ahead of us!

Soon we came to the Great Divide. Arrow left to Finisterre, right to Muxía.

So we turned right and headed to Muxía, a mere 28 ish (más o menos) km away. i managed to get my beloved bocadillo for breakfast…

The granaries were very traditional in this area…

And it wouldn’t be a walk without a friendly face to wish us well…

Thinking we were heading to the coast and it was all down hill we were quite (unpleasantly) surprised with constant ups. It’s like the Camino was trying to teach us a lesson about life. Oh, wait…?

And finally we were on a boardwalk along the beach. And we arrived in Muxía! At the zero km mark.

We’ve walked 422km in 18 days! There has been much laughter, some tears, numerous blisters and some great thinking done. The adventure is not over, and I will keep posting but for my Camino 2023, this is it. Thanks for following the journey with us!