Think I may have to ease up on those bocadillos I love so much.

The Camino journey has taken me into the Meseta – vast fields of wheat (and heat) as far as the eye can see. I can’t figure out why they need so much wheat, but then my mind drifts back to those bocadillos… The Meseta is reported to send people mad, as your thoughts turn inwards to contemplate the really important questions like…When will I achieve enlightenment-it’s been 18 days…? When will my butt get smaller-it’s been 18 days…? And will I find a bed for the night?

Since leaving Burgos we have walked about 60km through ghost towns mostly. So many Si Vende (For Sale) signs in derelict buildings (maybe to tempt passing Pilgrims to open their own albergue – or at least give us another thing to think about on the Meseta). Distances between towns have increased to what they were after Roncesvalles – now about 7-10km between them which makes for a decent walk between stops. The poppies are back!

We have stopped in Tardajos (Casa Beili – would recommend), Castrojirez (at the camping ground because all albergues were completo when we arrived at 3pm) and in Boadillo del Camino (at Albergue en el Camino which I would thoroughly recommend, dinner was sensational and grounds are lovely too). I enjoy the mornings the most. I listen to the birds and I even hear cuckoos wherever there are trees. Yes actual cuckoos that actually cuckoo! Who would have thought? The birds are all but gone by mid morning, as it starts to heat up because who in their right mind would be out in the 30+ degree heat…oh wait.

This morning’s walk out of Castrojirez was spectacular and steep. I am definitely getting fitter, as the hill climb would have done me in a few weeks ago, and this morning I was just fine. That’s today’s miracle.

I listen to music the rest of the time, mostly, between conversations with other pilgrims. I get so into it I sometimes dance along, which must look really weird since I am listening through headphones. I’m sure I’ll end up on someone’s “things you see on the camino” post somewhere! Today I tried to rescue a dehydrated cat on the road into Boadillo. I offered it some water and shade. I hope it survived, and it appreciated the gesture, since I really don’t like cats that much. A few more days on the Meseta until Leon. Stay tuned.