And on the 11th day the heavens opened…

So it really does rain in Spain! After being spoiled with fine weather and temperatures up to 30 degrees so far on this trip, the Camino provided teeming rain, fierce winds, thunder and lightning and a balmy top of 5 degrees celsius. It had to happen eventually I guess. I wasn’t a happy pilgrim as I struggled in the storms. The walk from Azofra to Granon was physically and mentally tough. I reflected (I’m doing a lot of that!) on how somehow we always find the strength we need. Even when we don’t think we have it.

At the top of one of the hills as the rain was driving down and the thunder crashing all around us, I saw a young girl crying uncontrollably. When I went over to help she told me she couldn’t go on because she was freezing. ‘Mum’ me looked her up and down and thought ‘well if you’d dressed properly for the weather instead of shorts and tshirt…’. ‘Pilgrim’ me reminded myself that the Camino teaches us all different lessons so I gave her my buff to warm her hands and threw my arm around her to keep our bodies close for warmth we walked together down the hill. Her name was Vittoria, she was 19, from Italy, and doing the Camino as part of her gap year. 

I know that in the non Camino world that whole incident might sound a little weird but those who have walked will understand. That night we were rewarded for our struggles-we stayed at a very special albergue in Granon, our first ‘donativo’, called Refuge Parrochial San Juan de Bautista. It is a refuge set up in the bell tower of the church, and operates on donations only. About 26 pilgrims, sleeping on mats on the floor, we prepared the evening meal together, sang The Camino song and had a wonderful pilgrim service in the church. One of the most special places so far, and today’s miracle. Some photos…

Vineyards on the road to Azofra
Scenes from the road to Azofra
In spite of my smile I really was not a happy pilgrim here…
Not a great photo because it was dark, but this is how we slept in the belltower!
We prepared a communal meal at the refugio – wonderful experience!
Window at the church showing Santiago (St James) who started all this!

Distance walked so far: around 220km. 

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